WARNING – In a worst case scenario you may have to restore your device with a backup rom. If you are not ready to do so please don’t use this app.

Reported to give problems on:

• HP Touchpad running Cyanogen Mod 9 ICS
• HTC Tattoo, Android 2.3.7 CyanogenMod-Arco-Kalim 
• Huawei U8500 (msm7225)
• NOOK Tablet – BNTV250 (Android 2.3.4)
• LG Optimus One (new update hopefully changes this)
• GPAD M7206
• Samsung I9003 Galaxy SL

Reported to work on:

• Samung Galaxy Tab GT-P7510, GT-P7500
• Samsung Galaxy Note – GT-N7000
• Samsung GT-I9100  (Samsung Galaxy S2)
• Samsung SPH-D710 Galaxy S2 Epic Touch 4G
• Samsung GT-I9000  (Galaxy S I)
• Samsung GT-S5360 Galaxy Y
• Nexus S (ICS)
• BBK vivo v1
• HTC Desire
• Droid
• Acer Iconia Tab A100
• Acer Iconia Tab A500
• Lenovo k1 using bcm4329 wireless chipset

Features:

• Enable WiFi Ad Hoc mode (and keep infrastructure)
• Restore original settings

Issues:

• No WiFi signal strength visible in taskbar
• There are reports where WiFi completely stopped working (until a factory/hard reset).

Requires:

• Root Access (Superuser)
• BusyBox (don’t forget to actually use the BusyBox wrapper app to download the BusyBox binary!)

Use at your own risk! Please create a rom backup before using this tool.

If you successfully enabled WiFi on your device, please press the “It Works” button to report it to me. I will add your device to the list of supported devices.

Market link: WiFi Ad Hoc enabler

Scan to open application link in the Android Market

If you don’t have access to Android Market please use the direct download link: WifiAdHocEnabler.apk (Latest v1.8)

Credits

Szymon for creating the wpa_supplicant file that allows you to see Ad Hoc networks ( http://szym.net/2010/12/adhoc-wifi-in-android/)

RootTools, a library that allows easy root related tasks: http://code.google.com/p/roottools/

Supporting more devices

Thank you for all your support requests. Before adding more devices, the app must become a bit more stable and reliable in determining the requirements for it to run.

Update: 31 January

Version 1.8.1 is out, changelog:

• Added LG Optimus P500 specific wpa_supplicant, please report if this works as I don’t own this device. (http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1325593)

This is after hiding all items:

Just go over to http://wordpress.org/extend/plugins/clean-admin-ui/ or search for it in your WordPress plugin section using the terms admin, menu, ui.

• Requires WordPress 2.8 or higher
• Added option to hide Media menu item.
• I am thinking of creating a localized version

Let me know if there are more options you would like to see.

view source link

Requirements:

Tools:

• Soldering iron + tin
• (optional) Multimeter
• (optional) Soldering clamp
• (optional) wire stripper

Parts:

• Parallel Strip Veroboard (€ 8,22) )
• USB-A Receptacle (optional, a direct usb cable with micro or mini usb is also possible)
• 5Volt Regulator LDO (Low Dropout) LM2940 (CT) ( € 1,31)
• Heatsink for LDO (optional) (€ 0,5)
• C1             2200uF   16v (€ 0,65)
• C4             .47uF      Tantalum bead (€ 0,22)
• C5             22uF       Tantalum bead (€ 0.43)
• Bridge Rectifier, 1.5A, 100V (€ 0,5)
• Heat-shrink tubing (optional)
• ABS Case / housing (optional) (€ 1.17)
• Cable Gland Locknut (optional) or: a Grommet:
• hub dynamo connector (€ 2,- ?)

Note that these prices are ex FAT and I ordered them in larger volumes, ymmv.

Poor man’s (ms-paint) diagram

Step 1: saw a piece out of the veroboard, approximately 17 x 40 mm (the board below is too long, approx 65 in length)

Step 2: Solder the two tantalum bead capacitors on the voltage regulator. Be careful to not overheat the components, polarity is essential. Long leg is positive.
Place the 22uF Capacitor on the right,  the .47 uF on the left. Negative polarity combined in the middle.

Step 3: prepare capacitor C1 with the heat-shrink tubing, bend the pins (long leg = positive) as seen in the photo. Keep the legs as long as possible for flexible placement of this component inside the ABS case.

Step 4: place the components on the veroboard:
Looking at the first picture below; the middle three parallel stripes on the board serve as the main electrical paths for the components. The stripe on the left corresponds with the positive side on the diagram.
- C1: the long leg (+) should be placed on the left of the three middle stripes. The short leg should go in the middle. (in reference to picture 1)
Picture 1:

The bridge rectifier output legs should be placed as follows: The + (as indicated on the component) should go on the left of the three middle strips.
The – (negative) output should go in the middle. The AC input legs can be placed on the outer stripes of the board. (left and right in reference to picture 1)

And finally solder the voltage regulator as well.

Before going any further, check to see if it’s working properly.
Prepare the cable that runs to the dynamo, and connect it on the input legs of the bridge rectifier. Polarity is of course of no concern as we are dealing with an alternating current. Connect the dynamo to this kit, swing the wheel and measure the output voltage on the + (Vout) and – leg of the output regulator.

We should measure around 5 Volts

If it doesn’t work, carefully check the polarity of the capacitors and other components.

We can now safely cut the remaining component legs form the veroboard, and bend C1 to fit inside the ABS case.

I connected the heat-sink using a blind rivet this is ideal as it does not need any additional space (especially height).

Before connecting the cables, drill a small hole for the Cable Gland Locknut, connect the Cable Gland Locknut and route the wires through it.

Next, connect the USB A receptacle or if you like a mini or micro USB cable directly to the voltage regulator output legs. Connect the dynamo cable to the bridge rectifier.

In order for this whole package to fit inside the box, I had to saw one of the corners from the veroboard.

When using the same ABS case as listed in the requirements section, be sure to cut the two screw holes at the bottom of the case for more room.

That’s pretty much it. I will seal the case of with a polymer resin, to make it water proof. Be sure to only do this after you are absolutely sure everything works.

Revision 2 with grommets

That’s it! Let me know if you take on the challenge to build one yourself, or if I need to explain anything in more detail.

The latest incarnation is a stripped down version of the original. I left out the input tuning C2, C3, R1 (see original post for the diagram) and replaced the 4 Schottky diodes with an integrated bridge rectifier. The Schottky diodes  are more efficient due to the lower forward voltage drop, but require more soldering and space.  This version now fits into a small ABS case. I hope to replace the fixed USB cable with a USB A receptacle (if it fits).

Have a look at http://www.arenddeboer.com/flashnap/ ViewSource is enabled for a peak inside.

You can use any username / password combo as long as it doesn’t exist yet.

update:
Due to a take-down notice from the BPI connecting with this client is currently not possible.

Update:
Server back online with filesharing disabled.

Visiting verisign.com you will see a one year Code Signing Certificate will set you back  US $ 499,-

According to Adobe’s Flash Builder documentation only Certificates from the big four CA’s are trusted:

“A developer can use any class-3, high-assurance certificate provided by any CA to sign an Adobe AIR application. However, only ChosenSecurity, GlobalSign, Thwarte, and VeriSign come pre-installed on most end user’s machines (Mac OS X or Windows) and are trusted by the operating systems.”

These companies ask an amazing amount of money for a certificate, luckily there are better alternatives. The one I got was available for $75,- a year. This of course raises the question whether this certificate will be accepted, but I did found a couple of blog posts that reassured me this shouldn’t be a problem.

Hop over to author.tucows.com, register for an account and you will be able to purchase a Comodo Certificate through tucows.
The process will take some time. You will have to email documents to proof  your business/person identity and they probably call you as well. After receiving the certificate and signing the AIR package I was able to install my signed software successfully on:

• Windows 7
• Windows Vista
• Windows XP
• Mac OS X (10.6).

Unfortunately Ubuntu Linux 10.04 fails to recognize/trust the certificate out of the box (thanks to Jaap for testing this)

Before:

After:

The problem

I have a 4 drive spanned RAID (raid0) volume where one of the drives mysteriously dropped from the volume, becoming a so called non-RAID member.  I was pretty sure I had not messed around with this now non-raid drive. Neither had I performed any write operations to this disk. This led me to the conclusion that somehow the software raid manager (Intel Storage Matrix) had decided the drive was no longer part of the volume, but the data must still be intact. Apparently the meta-data for each member used by the (software) RAID BIOS is located on each member drive. So if this meta-data could be restored, the entire volume could be restored. Armed with this knowledge I booted into the RAID BIOS, and removed the other 3 drives from the volume. This will give you an intimidating warning about losing all data, but at least with Intel RAID this only wipes the RAID meta-data from the drive. After  removing all drives, I recreated the exact same volume, in the exact same order (order is critical!)  Now after booting into Windows I was able to recover the partition with the excellent tool TestDisk which you can find here: http://www.cgsecurity.org.

Be sure to follow the manual. In my case the partition didn’t show up using the quick-search, but after the more thorough  “Deeper Search”.

Many thanks go to Christophe GRENIER, the developer of TestDrive and the post from  “adamsap” on forums.extremeoverclocking.com

Situation

My PC has 6 drives in it, two 1TB drives as a mirrored RAID (raid1) which hold two separate installations of Windows 7 and 4 500 GB drives running as striped RAID (raid0). I somehow lost the ability to boot into my second installation of Windows 7 which I use for gaming. In an effort to fix this I planned on removing the 200 MB system reserved partition, converting this partition to a Linux ext2 filesystem to install the GRUB bootloader. I assumed this partition was used only for the Recovery Environment. Boy was I wrong…

After converting this partition, on the next boot I was greeted with the infamous “BOOTMGR is missing, Press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart” message

Thinking this could easily be solved with the Windows Recovery Disc, I booted the original Windows 7 DVD, selected “Repair your computer” and was surprised to see the error:

“This version of System Recovery Options is not compatible with the version of Windows you are trying to repair. Try using a recovery disc that is compatible with this version of Windows”

If you see this error, chances are you try to use the 32 bit version of Vista / Windows 7 Recovery Options on a 64 bit Windows installation, or the other way around. This wasn’t the case with my setup. I knew I had Windows 7 x64 and I was sure I had the right Recovery DVD. After wasting many hours I finally found the reason of this misleading error. As mentioned earlier, the Windows installation that needed recovery was located on a RAID1 (mirror). Temporary disabling  RAID1 in the BIOS allowed me to get past this error and continue the path to recovery. In my case this was done by setting the “SATA RAID / AHCI mode” from RAID to AHCI.

The recovery environment scanned my drives and welcomed me with the message that problems where found and could be fixed, needing a reboot after the fix.

“Failed to save startup options“

Unfortunately this fix failed with “Failed to save startup options“. This can happen if the filesystem is corrupted so I dropped into the recovery command prompt and performed a disk scan using “chkdsk c: /f” no problems where  found. Finally after much trial and error, and searching online I was able to boot my system. I do unfortunately not remember the exact sequence of the below commands, so you might have to play with this a bit.
Still in the recovery command prompt go to the boot directory with the command: “cd boot”.

• Restore the bootloader with: “bcdboot c:\windows /s c:”
• Repair the mbr with: “bootrec /mbr”
• Repair the bootsector with: “bootrec /fixboot”
• Repopulate the bootloader with : “bootrec /RebuildBcd”
• Update master boot code on all partitions with BOOTMGR code: “bootsect.exe /nt60 ALL /force /mbr”

The next reboot no longer gave me the “Missing BOOTMGR” but halfway down the boot sequence a blue screen flashed shortly and the pc rebooted. This I solved by reactivating the RAID mirror by switching back from AHCI to RAID in the BIOS.

Finally the system booted, unfortunately yet another problem surfaced: The striped RAID setup of 4 drives failed due to one of the drives had dropped out of the array, now being labeled “non-RAID member”. Even though the 4 drives where disconnected during the above endeavor. I will describe my solution to this problem in my next post.